The last years, I spent a lot of time in our “home” crag in Vorlapsee (CH). It is a 45min drive to get to this beautiful place higher up in the swiss mountains.
I love the climbing there because it is always a good training for alpine-multi-pitch-climbing as well. So most of the time when I went to Voralpsee, I repeated some of the routes there, those I already climbed before, just for training. “Speed integrale” was that route which is much harder than most of the climbs in the crag and the outstanding line on the almost blank part of the wall catches everyone’s eyes. I never really invested time on this climb because it felt simply too hard to me.
This year after an intense winter training in the gym I wanted to focus on this route because it is one of the best you can find in his grade. It was really easy to motivate myself to try such a iconic line. So I spend a lot of time at this crag to work on the route. There was always a fanatic group of friends up there. Everybody was psyched to try their own project so we all had tons of fun spending time in Voralpsee pushing each other to give our best. It took me about two month to realize a big dream to finally send “speed integrale”
It was 7 a.m. when I was coming off the graveyard shift at the hospital where I work as a radiologist assistant. My chances of sending, I figured, were slim. But going climbing was better than not, so I and a few friends headed to the crag.
The morning was wet, and conditions were humid. It rained, then let up, so I gave my project a burn. I was trying Cedric Lachat’s Speed Intégrale (9a), an extension to Speed (8c+), which was put up by the Austrian stalwart Beat Kammerlander.
Oddly enough, and despite my fatigue, I climbed really well. I felt no pressure and climbed to a highpoint on my second go. Later that evening, I figured I will take one more fitness lap on the route, just for fun.
I tied in, and with no expectations, battled to the top of my first 9a, proving that it always pays to go climbing.
film: “alpsolut moving pictures”