Last November on our first trip to Indian Creek we made great experience in crack climbing but for sure it was also a painful game. For us it was like to start another kind of sport. Climbing on the easy graded cracks was not easy. To stay in a crack and jam….this was the completely opposite to faceclimbing. But so cool to start from a low level and improve in this kind of climbing every single day.
We got better after a few days on the desert rock and from time to time it felt more comfortable and we were psyched to try harder cracks and go for some towers. But in November 2013 the weather changed from warm temperatures to cold snowy windstorms and our trip went by too fast, at the end we had no more time to climb a tower. That was also one reason to come back. And after a few month back home we booked the next flight back to Indian Creek.
On our second trip to Indian Creek this spring we didn’t have a special project but we have planned to try something harder and climb some towers. And for sure we were psyched to climb moonlight buttress in Zion. One of the ultimate classic multipitches there. For Indian Creek it was much more fun again to try a lot of different routes. Most of the routes we climbed in Indian Creek, we tried to climb onsight and only a few hard once we tried more than three times. So project one hard crack for days—this was not a option for us. One of my hardest and most beautiful cracks was ruby’s cafe 5.13-. It was all about a little changing corner were you have to make a strange crossmove, changing into laybacking up to reach the last hard part– a little roof.
For me the greatest adventure of our second trip to Utah was the multipitch Moonlight buttress in the Zion National Park. This is a real master piece. The route was a big challenge for us. It is for sure not the hardest or longest thing I’ve ever climbed, but it offers up three pitches in a row of one of the single hard-sized cracks for me. Jacopo leaded the crux pitch and i decided to lead the hard chimney pitch. We were so psyched to climb through those pitches and I think we even learned some slight nuances more in technique. So at the end we freeclimbed all pitches and we made a team acsent.
Here are some inspirations of our second trip to Indian Creek this spring.
Big Thanks to Françios Lebeau for this great pics and for the great time staying together in Indian Creek.