Update

Posted on 04.08.14


The last weeks Jacopo and I had a stop and go between Vorarlberg, Zillertal and Dolomites. One of our plans for this summer is to climb some cool routes in the Dolomites.  We started really early in the year to try a route on the north face of the west cime. Our goal was to try Panaroma or Bellavista. Two routes from Alexander Huber, first free climbed in 2001 Bellavista and Panaroma in 2007. At our first day in the route it was freezing cold and hard to stay motivated for climbing in this bad conditions. It was still hard to keep our bodys warm while moving. Compared to climbing in “Rätikon” or “Wilder Kaiser” it is a completely other game. You have to climb really controlled and balanced also on the easier pitches. It’s not like take a hold and pulling through. You always have to take care that you don’t break a hold. Of course on the lower pitches that can be always happen and the protection is not the best there. (rusty pitons)

As I said above, on this freezing day we climbed up to the crux pitch and decided to rappel down. It made no sense to keep on climbing with frozen fingers and toes. Also the next two days in the wall the conditions were against us and the best decision was to leave. We drove back to Bludenz to escape from the bad weather in the Dolomites. I had to work some days and after one week we gave it another try. We took fix ropes with us to fix the two crux pitches.  I tried the first part of the 8b+ pitch and Jacopo tried the crux. He had some really big falls and it was a huge effort for him to jumar up one after another fall. This cost a lot of energy. Jacopo broke one big hold at the beginning of the crux on the 8b+ pitch, which is now much harder. Sure harder than the originally crux pitch after. Apart from this after one more day working on this crux pitch Jacopo found a solution for this sequence and free climbed this pitch. This was one good day in the route. At the same day we realized that more and more climbers got motivated to try Panaroma or Bellavista. On our last days in the route it was really crowded there.  Normally I go in the mountains to enjoy the wildness and freedom in the nature. Be far from any civilization. So I decided to shelve this project for a while anyway the weather was always bad and we went sportclimbing in Zillertal or in Vorarlberg.

Beside of that in the meanwhile it got more important for me to try this little route in Zillertal. Regardless to the weather “Total brutal” how the route is called was always try. It is a real Zillertal classic route from Gerhard Hörhager opened in the 90s. Zillertal has always been a special place for me. A few years ago I drove nearly every weekend to Zillertal to climb some of the most beautiful sportclimbing routes there. So every time when I drove to Zillertal I drove past “total brutal”. The rock quality there is the completely opposite to the three cimes. It is very compact granite and instead of that I changed from a 500m wall to 10m sportclimb. I don’t know why but somehow I got extremely motivated for this.  I have to say the route is next to the street. In fact when you’re lowering off after completing the route, you’re second has to look out for oncoming traffic! There are also some chipped holds but it is still a part of Zillertal’s climbing history. I always wanted to try this short bouldery route.  I could do the single moves quite fast but bring it all together was unnerving, it took me a lot of time. I always felt on the same long move which was the crux for me, at the middle of the route. After the third day trying this route I was confident to climb it after a few goes. But this was not the case. I figured out a good beta. I could do the crux passage 6 times in a row. But from ground up I always felt there. I was too stubborn to stop trying it and at the end I found my way up to the top.  For me this route felt really hard. I think the crux move is one of the longest moves I have ever done. I was really happy to complete it and now my mind is free to go back to the Dolomites. Hopefully we are lucky for this upcoming time and it will be possible to try one of this two routes.

pics: Jacopo Larcher

Share This