Trad in Cadarese

Posted on 29.10.14


After an humid cold summer in the Dolomites and a little filming period for Servus TV, about my ascent of the alps Trilogy. I got motivated for something different. Finally after a loooooong time without Jacopo, he arrived back home and we decided to go to Caderese (Italy). Jacopo was there before, he had already climbed some of the coolest lines there and had collected some really fast repeats of the hard test pieces there. He didn’t get bored because he found a beautiful line in Cadarese, brushed it and tried his new hardcore project. All that before my visit to Cadda. So with Jacopo on my side it was easy to find the best lines of the forest. First of all I had the trad route „The Doors“ in my mind. I knew it from the video of Matteo Della Bordella, when he chopped all the original bolts of the route and changed it into one of the most popular trad routes in Cadarese. I was stoked about this masterpiece. We had four days time to climb in Cadarese, so the time was quite short to try all the great cracks there. Already on my first go on it I fell very good, and I was able to make a fast repeat of „The Doors“ (checked it out, tried once in toprope and after i was surprised to send it). The day after Jacopo recommended me „Mustang“, another classic trad climb graded around 8a. For me the same sending strategy worked out….even if with badly scratched hands it was hard to motivate myself for another crack the day after. Jacopo tried „Grazie Ricky“, a bolted route, which can also be perfectly protected only with mobile gear. At the same day he send this route. I tried it in toprope and checked the placements for the „lead go“.

The day after, on our last day in the crag, I was very happy to finish this trip with sending „Grazie Ricky 8a“ in trad style. Last but not least Jacopo made good progress in his project until it got dark. So we have enough reasons to come back. 

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