Spain

Posted on 15.05.15


Spain is always our first destination for a rockclimbing trip after a period of climbing on plastic in the gym. So we had a trill of anticipation to touch the spanish rock again. Our plan was to stay in Cornudella and climb around this place. Cornudella is a small village surrounded by tons of rock. A typical spanish village with small side streets, bars old small houses and super relaxed people living there. Famous as the trip-base for many climbers from all over the world. You really can say that in the climbing season are more climbers in the village than inhabitans. A positive point out of that– we meet always some friends there.

Siurana, Margalef and Montsant these are climbing destinations you can reach within 30min of driving. This playground of climbing is very varied. In Siurana most of the routes are super crimpy and bouldery. In Montsant the routes are super long and punpy and of course in Margelef you can have everything, long super cool looking tufas, or sharp painful pockets, boulder routes or pumpy steep tarain. So everybody will find his dreamlines there. Of course this makes Spain to one of the best climbing destinations in the world.

I had no special plan or goal for our trip. Just climb as much as possible. I really like the simple life there. Climbing all day long, hanging out, eating and sleeping that was on the dayli agenda.

Jacopo had some routes in his mind which he wanted to try so we went the first day to “Can Piqui Pugui”. Also because it was super windy and this sector was protected. After some warming ups Jacopo tried „a muerte“ a classic super hard route in the middle of the wall. On his first day on it he looked really close to send it. I tried „Renegoide“, a route Jacopo recommended to me, a vertical technical line. I was super happy to send this route after two trys. So I was super motivated for the next days, trying the best looking route of the crag (in my opinion), „Chikane“. I really like to climb on small crimps. so this line was just perfect. The single moves i could to quite fast but connect all seven hard moves in the bouldercrux, from that i was quite far.

I made some progress, comming closer while trying it for three days but i didn’t want to try just one route on our two weeks trip. There are so many other cool routes to climb. I couldn’t just focus on one. But it is a good reason to come back next year and stay looooonger. So after we changed the place and climbed also in other crags like Montsant or Margalef, we climbed a lot of completely different routes. From big tufas to long pumy routes in Montsant, for example „Elements“ a 40m route on big pockets. Jacopo onsighted balconetti (8b+) a 50m monster. So all in all we had a great time there, climbing in the Spanish sun.

 

here a little video by Bernardo Giminez about our Spaintrip:

Video–Back to Spain

 

highlights:
8b+Renegoide
8b+ Elements
8b El dominio del qusano
8b Xiqueteta

 

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