Siurana 2.0

Posted on 06.07.17


It was this time of a year where we got stoked for this almost regular trip to Spain. What i like most about Spain is the simple life. There is no rush at all. breakfast, drinking good coffee’s, go climbing all day long, having a good time together with friends, go for a beer, dinner and repeat.

The years before we always wanted to climb as much as possible and try as many different routes as possible. But this time we both had a special route in our mind which we wanted to focus on. 

For me it was this route which I already tried some years ago, but I didn’t have any chance to connect all this hard crimpy moves. It is the line called „Chikane“.  In my opinion definitely one of the most beautiful routes on this wall, at the sector „Can Pigui Pugui“

It was easy to get motivated and put some energy in such a cool route.
After almost two weeks of trying hard, skipping that bolt in the crux, having a bad fall with the rope behind my leg, where i hit the wall badly, but was lucky that nothing serious happened, grabbing the quickdraw when i got the first time over the crux- because i was still scared about the fall i took the day before, all that was quite frustrating…..

After all that intens experiences, the up and downs! Everything was worthwhile and finally I finished „Chikane“ definitely my highlight of that trip.

In the meanwhile Jacopo got on his nemesis route „A muerte“, the one he tried a lot the year before and made finally quick work on it. After the second week he almost had finished the whole crag, doing all these hard climbs there.

So we took a few easy days hanging out at Daila’s house in Cornudella, went climbing late and just climbed a lot of different easier routes, what was fun to get a bit out of this projecting focus…Every week some new friends arrived and it was just fun to climb together and enjoy the sun; (we only had one rainy day in one month, what was incredible).

(here Michi Wohlleben on a classic 7c+ (Siouxie)

 

(Andreas Miller giving it all at the sector La Olla)

Jacopo’s main goal of the trip was the famous „La Rambla“.
So most of the time of the last two weeks we climbed at this crag called „El Pati“ the most common sector in Siurana.
Jacopo worked hard on „La Rambla“ got some highpoints on that one and i tried to climb some routes around it.

I got the first time on „Estado Critico“ the first 9a I have ever tried…it was a cool experience to get to know how hard it can be on such a test piece. Soon our trip came to an end and Jacopo got more and more nervous if he can do „La Rambla“ on this trip or not.

To keep it short…..Jacopo, went full on! on our last day in Siurana….just a few hours before we had to leave back home, with all the last minute pressure he made it to the top…..and that was the best happy end what we could wish for…..

Francois Lebeau joined us for the last day’s—and took this great pics. Many thanks to all our friends to hang out with us and making this trip so special!

BD-Trip report

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